vogue

Vogue International

Before it’s in fashion, it’s in Vogue—stories from emerging talent around the world, told in six posts, curated by Vogue teams globally.

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5 of 6 Follow French illustrator @elodie.lascar ’s story this week. ⠀ “Cinema is definitely a great source of inspiration for me, the framing and lighting of a film are what most inspire my drawings. The American film ’Vertigo’ in particular, for its stunning tones and colorful ambiance. ⠀ “I’m also fascinated by the way photographer Nan Goldin captures intimacy, and by cartoonist Robert Crumb. His vision of female figure is simply genius.” ⠀ Interview translated from French.
4 of 6 Follow French illustrator @elodie.lascar ’s story this week. ⠀ “I studied decorative arts in Strasbourg, then moved from Paris to Marseille four years ago – I still view Marseille from a stranger’s perspective today, with a lot of love. I often find myself looking it in amazement and gratitude. ⠀ “Every morning, I arrive early at the workshop to enjoy the morning light and a coffee before I get to work. Marseille imposes its own relaxed rhythm.” ⠀ Interview translated from French.
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3 of 6 Follow French illustrator @elodie.lascar ’s story this week. ⠀ “Society tends to sexualize the female body. However, nudity can also be a sign of freedom, a symbol of relaxation and well-being. ⠀ “I’m fascinated by women who make noise, women who take up a lot of space and who are not afraid of what others may think. Feminine energy and strength are the two qualities that I like to explore as an illustrator.” ⠀ Interview translated from French.
2 of 6 Follow French illustrator @elodie.lascar ’s story this week. ⠀ “I can spend hours looking at people, observing them. I sit down at a café and stare at people’s faces. I also have a database of images, screenshots and random pictures and films [that I study]. Then, I start with a simple drawing and slowly work on a consistent line. After that, colors give life to the scene. ⠀ “I use a risograph, a printing technique that was used by organizations and trade unions in the 1970s and 1980s. Today, more and more artists take over the risograph because it’s not only easy to use and cheap, but the colors are amazing. When I started to work with it, I only had two colors: blue and red. This constraint changed the way I worked and it taught me to keep it simple.” ⠀ Interview translated from French.
1 of 6 “I’m an ardent feminist and I strive to reflect this in all my work.” French illustrator Elodie Lascar (@elodie.lascar ) lives in Marseille, where she draws on the powerful mediterranean atmosphere and forceful female characters. “The warm colors, the light and the sea are probably what influence me the most. And women of course!” ⠀ For the first five years of her life, Elodie lived in Israel, she then grew up in Paris before heading south. “When I first arrived in Marseille, I started to draw women instinctively. It became important for me to question the representation of the female body,” she explains. “I fight against the beauty standards and try to avoid the expected stereotypes of frail young silhouettes often depicted in the media. Women are not only nice and cute, they can also be strong and overly exuberant.” ⠀ Follow @elodie.lascar ’s story this week. (Interview translated from French.)
6 of 6 Being a young entrepreneur is not without obstacles. “The most challenging aspect of launching the brand has been organizing my production and training my tailors,” says Sarah (@dioufsarah ). “Two of my tailors have been doing this for over 20 years and it was challenging for them to understand that a 20-something-year-old woman could teach them something, so we bumped heads quite a bit – but it ended up being a defining moment for the business.” ⠀ Despite the challenges, Sarah plans to grow up her business. “In two years, I will set a large-scale production that will create more jobs and impact the retail industry, so I need to let other people in, business-wise, as a stronger and bigger business means bigger financial resources, it’s the logical next step.” She’s also working on a documentary to share her experience of creating ‘Ghubar’ and Tongoro. The film is called called ‘Building an African Dream’. ⠀ See more of African fashion entrepreneur @dioufsarah ’s story on @vogue.
5 of 6 Follow African fashion entrepreneur @dioufsarah ’s story this week. ⠀ “I wake up around 8am, get through my emails, and head to the gym before going to the main fabric market in Dakar, Sandaga, where I source all my fabrics. I then head back to my tailors to organize the production of samples. Post-lunch break, I collect and dispatch the shipments of the day, and organize the next deliveries. I also work on the promotion of the brand, preparing social media posts and online ads for the website.”
4 of 6 Follow African fashion entrepreneur @dioufsarah ’s story this week. ⠀ “My clothing line, Tongoro, is inspired by different elements of Senegalese culture, such as dances, places, and the overall lifestyle mixing of urban and beach life. The designs translate as the idea of New Africa — still very close to its roots, yet very aware and open to the world. ⠀ “If you were visiting Dakar, I would recommend a trip to Gorée island, a UNESCO-listed harbor; not only for its history but also for its charm. Thiebou dieune – rice and fish in a spicy tomato sauce with vegetables – is one of our traditional dishes, shared in a big communal bowl. The African Renaissance monument is one-of-a-kind. It is also the tallest statue on the continent.”
3 of 6 Follow African fashion entrepreneur @dioufsarah ’s story this week. ⠀ “I am very into West African dances, music and rhythms right now. I have always been obsessed with the sound of the Kora; Toumani Diabaté and Sonah Jobarteh are my favorite artists. When I listen to music, I get inspired – I visualize a mood for the character to evolve in. For me, creating is a 360 degree process: you can’t design without considering an environment. It involves space, movement, sound and sight.”
2 of 6 Follow African fashion entrepreneur @dioufsarah ’s story this week. ⠀ “Dakar, Senegal is a living crossroad between tradition and modernism, reflected in the architecture, the lifestyle, the fashion… It is also a very peaceful environment where everyone, while being different, can express themselves and co-exist peacefully. To me, Dakar is a feeling. It isn't just the colors, or the day-to-day scenery, but the combination of everything, it feels like coming home.”
1 of 6 “I strongly believe in what I do, in my people, in our skills,” says Sarah Diouf (@dioufsarah ), “Hence why it was very important for me that everything was made here: 100% Made in Africa.” The 30-year-old entrepreneur and creator of clothing line Tongoro was raised in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire, and moved to Paris, where she was born, in the 2000 political crisis. She started her fashion career in 2008, with the launch of her first magazine ‘Ghubar’, which celebrates the Arabic and sub-Saharan African creative scenes. ⠀ When time came to develop her own clothing line, it felt important to the self-proclaimed African to do it from Senegal. “I see myself as a voice of diversity, not only in my community but also on the French fashion scene”, she says. ⠀ Follow @dioufsarah ’s story this week.
6 of 6 As a queer photographer, Eli Beristain (@eli.beristain ) captures a dreamlike and cinematic world, involving female figures with vintage tapestries as a backdrop. Playing with a faded color palette, Eli creates powerful compositions. “I enjoy placing gay girls surrounded by 60s aesthetics in my pictures because this is a type of image I don’t really have access to. ⠀ “I’ve seen very few photographs from that time celebrating sapphic love, so I’m trying to fill a void for the images I’d like to see.” While a lot of people have big plans, the London-based photographer doesn’t spend too much time thinking of the future. “I often daydream of situations and images I’d love to make real and then try to get as close to that dream as possible on a shoot. But my main goal for life now is not to put too much pressure on myself, and to continue.” ⠀ See more of London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week on @vogue.
5 of 6 Follow London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week. ⠀ “Any project that actively works to represent minority communities is important. The act of unapologetically photographing #LGBTQ people helps. Everyone – including myself – should strive to take more pictures of the people you see least photographed. ⠀ “Curvy women, gay women, and women of color are often neglected so it’s important to espouse the rhetoric of inclusion – to produce art able to contribute to the omission of said communities in the media.”
4 of 6 Follow London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week. ⠀ “I love campy aesthetics. Cowboys, an excess of color and kitsch decoration are right up my alley. I’ve picked up these visual flourishes from the people around me at lesbian night clubs. In these settings, queer aesthetics always include a bit of performance. ⠀ “At Nice Mover, a lesbian nightclub I frequent, everyone takes their chance to dress up as caricatures of their daytime selves. This kind of safe space allows people to dress and act how they like, they know the risk of a confrontation is diminished. All the excessive clothes always inspire the patina of campy glamour I love to photograph.”
3 of 6 Follow London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week. ⠀ “I think it’s important for women to photograph more women, as it often feels more like an authentic collaboration as opposed to a sexualised and exploitative image. ⠀ “Women have never been underrepresented in photography. The problem is they have mostly been visually present as muses and models in pictures taken by men. The power dynamic in photos of women taken by men often robs the initial subject.”
2 of 6 Follow London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week. ⠀ “From childhood, pink has always been my favorite color. I’ve always been very insecure, and dousing myself in overly feminine things was a way to assimilate in other people’s version of femininity. ⠀ “Now, I try to accept the multiple versions of myself, and let myself explore my own style without being so critical towards my past incarnations.”
1 of 6 Eli Beristain (@eli.beristain ) discovered her dream job almost by accident. “As a kid, I tried every hobby under the sun, and toppled over what I now do for a living,” she says. Later, Eli found photography as a way to express her creativity and explore her identity. “I initially started shooting on film purely for technical reasons, but eventually fell in love with the texture and color analog photography can provide.” ⠀ Eli is both British and Basque, which she says broadened her perception of the world. She now lives in London. “Having a dual or multiple nationality helps you examine closely the cultures you live in. Being Basque has influenced so much of what I do. At Christmas and during festivals, we dress up in our national dress, which consists of a 1800s skirt, blouse and headscarf. As a child, I used to love this, and I think this ritualized aspect of dressing up is still present in my love for colour and costume.” ⠀ Follow London-based photographer @eli.beristain ’s story this #pride week.
6 of 6 Nayeli (@smilewith_style ) turns to local street style for more than just visual inspiration. “Last year we did a big campaign for H&M, and we had Mexican models – not professional models, but people we casted off the street – one guy was an electrician, for example,” she says. “It questioned preconceived notions and standards of beauty in Mexico.” She’s also optimistic about the future. “We work in fashion – and yes, sometimes it can be superficial and it can be a dark industry at times – but even with all of that, it’s what we do and we like it and we should strive to make a difference and change the way we work.” ⠀ See more of Mexico City-based stylist @smilewith_style ’s story on @vogue. (Interview translated from Spanish.)
5 of 6 Follow Mexico City-based stylist @smilewith_style ’s story this week. ⠀ “There is a real change going on [in Mexico] right now to make campaigns more inclusive, not just in skin tones and hair color, but in size and shape too. For a long time it was that blonde, skinny, tall look that was deemed desirable, so brands always went for that look. Whenever I’m working on a project I make sure I include Mexican talent, because it’s important. ⠀ “It’s all well and good when someone says they want a European model – and I don’t have a problem with it – but I do ask the question: ‘Why does she have to be European?’ I ask because I want to question the concept behind the decision. So often there isn’t a reason for it; it is just that they have this idea of what they want without really thinking of WHY they want it. Celebrating and promoting Mexican talent through my work is something I am very proud of.” ⠀ Interview translated from Spanish.
4 of 6 Follow Mexico City-based stylist @smilewith_style ’s story this week. ⠀ “I didn’t do it intentionally, but I’ve adopted a process that is very character-based. Whether I’m doing an editorial or the creative direction of a campaign or something, I always start by asking who that person is, what story they are telling. I think about what music they listen to, what they like to eat, what they do and think – I go deep. That way it is more fun for me, but I think the final product – the shoot, the campaign, the video, whatever it is – is more authentic for it too. It is better to build a character, with a back story and a reason for being than just put clothes together because ‘they look good’.”
3 of 6 Follow Mexico City-based stylist @smilewith_style ’s story this week. ⠀ “Over the last couple of years, I’ve seen more and more production houses coming to work in Mexico City. At the beginning they were really surprised to find talented people here, but now they are more used to the idea – maybe because of the internet we are easier to find, or maybe we’re getting better and showing what we can do. Or they’ve just realized that the talent coming from Mexico is on par with other creatives from around the world. Mexico City feels like a very global place now.” ⠀ Interview translated from Spanish.
2 of 6 Follow Mexico City-based stylist @smilewith_style ’s story this week. ⠀ “There was never a question that I would study fashion. My Barbies were my first models. I would cut and modify their clothes – swapping sleeves from this outfit to that one, sewing them whichever way I could. I would cut their hair, color their hair, and using my mom’s eyeliners I would paint their lips. My mom used to get so angry saying I’d destroyed all my Barbies, but I loved it.” ⠀ Interview translated from Spanish.
1 of 6 Nayeli De Alba (@smilewith_style ) began styling when she was 10 years old. “I shared a room with my older sister and I’d see her going out to raves. She never wanted to make an effort, so she would let me dress her,” she says. “My sister had an extravagant friend who used to come around too – red hair, checkered bell-bottom trousers, platform shoes, and she never wore a bra – she inspired me so much.” ⠀ Originally from Guadalajara, Mexico, the 31-year-old’s penchant for modifying clothes led her to roles in visual merchandising and editorials with local magazines. Nayeli has lived in the country’s capital for seven years, and street style remains her biggest influence. “I need to be out on the streets, seeing people, looking at what they wear and how they wear it,” she explains. “I save these visual references – characters, color combinations – and sometimes they’ll sit in my mind for ages and then ‘ring, ring’ – a lightbulb will go off in my head.” ⠀ Follow @smilewith_style ’s story this week. (Interview translated from Spanish.)
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