#repost @usefulcoach #poweredbyfitbot
If you can't measure it, you can't manage it.
For 2017 I am testing out a new idea I had for tracking my endurance training.
Last night I assumed I had spent more cumulative time on the circuit board than last time. It sure felt like I did, unfortunately not.
Looking over my last set, I spent almost 3 minutes less! If you want to progress you have to change a variable, something that provides a greater training stimulas than previously. In my case I use time.
The Arch Climbing (@archclimbing
) "Biscuit" sets three levels on their circuit board, and rather than boulder I spend Tuesday nights doing endurance work.
Due to the difficulty of the highest graded setting, it made little sense trying to track full repetitions, so I decided to rather use fixed attempts and track total time spent on the circuits. The point being endurance is staying on the wall, not completing problems.
Simply I start the stopwatch on the wall, and stop it when I fall off. I then add up all the times to get a cumulative time for the session.
For the easiest Circuit A I have two attempts and normally clock just over 5 minutes of total time. Circuit C I have four attempts due to difficulty and clock around 3 minutes in total. Circuit X is where I simply chose whatever holds I like and create my own circuit, auto-regulating the difficulty. Time varies but normally ends up being around 4 minutes.
Every Tuesday evening I should see my cumulative time of all circuits increase, even if it's just by 20 seconds overall. If I was smart, yesterday I would have printed out the previous session's attempt times so I know how hard to push myself on each attempt.
Since I didn't, I didn't realise I was grossly behind on my Circuit X load, and failed to meet my targets for the evening. But work was done of course, and monthly volume is still key.
Well hope this gave someone some ideas for thinking about your own climbing training, monitoring, and progression.
Tuesday Biscuit Endurance Program
Circuit A: 2
Circuit B: 2
Circuit C: 4
Circuit X: 4
Mixed hand-position sloper deadhangs: 10x15s(on)20s(off)
Pike push-ups: 5x10 (2m rest between sets)